For a soup that has been around for centuries and has come to personify the Italian primal attitude towards cooking, you’d expect many variations. Every region, every town, every community, every Nonna from Brescia to Bari, Genoa to Naples, has its own authentic version of this what’s-not-to-love soup. Add a crusty semolina loaf and some regional Italian cheeses to the table, and have a joyful meal.
“You could call soup the definition of soul food – a warming bowl of goodness. No matter what time of the year, it’s always soup season to me. One of my favorites in minestrone. Not only is it so satisfying, but it’s still light and fresh. It’s easy to make and highly seasonable. Carrots, onions, and other vegetables enrich the herb, tomato-y broth. The beans and pasta thicken the soup to a rich flavor. It’s not flashiest in the slightest, but it will keep you remembering and wanting more.” — David LaForce, The Cook’s Cook Community Forum on Facebook
237 ml (1 cup) each dried cranberry and navy beans, soaked overnight*
237 ml (1 cup) fresh green beans (preferably haricoverts), cut in 1.2 cm (½-inch) pieces
2 liters (8 cups) chicken or vegetable broth, or as needed
355 ml (1 1/2 cups) shredded cabbage
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
227 grams (½ lb) small pasta (tubettini, tiny shells, mini penne), cooked to just al dente, rinsed in cold water
Rinds of Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano cheese
Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano cheese, grated, for sprinkling
*Canned beans may be substituted; add in last half hour of simmer.
Preparation
In a pot large enough to hold all of the ingredients sauté the pancetta until translucent. Add the onion to the rendered fat and cook until softened. Add garlic and cook until softened. Drain off excess fat; add olive oil. Add the carrots, celery, and rosemary; cover the pot and ‘sweat’ them briefly in a little of the stock. Meanwhile, drain and cook the soaked beans in unsalted boiling water for 20 minutes.
2. Drain the beans, reserving the cooking water. Purée one cup’s worth of beans in with a stick blender or food processor with a little reserved water.
3. Add purée to the cooking vegetables. Add tomatoes and cook about 5 minutes. Add the remaining beans, green beans, and stock. Grind in some pepper; add a Pecorino or Parmigiano rind if you have one. Simmer for 30 minutes. Add cabbage, and simmer another 30 minutes. If too thick, add more broth. Adjust seasonings. Add chopped parsley. Can be made ahead to this point.
4. When ready to serve, put a half cup or more of cooked pasta in the bottom of each warmed bowl, and pour over the hot soup. Sprinkle with grated cheese and serve. Pass the pepper mill and remaining cheese.
Edward Bottone is a food and lifestyle journalist based in Philadelphia, whose works have appeared in Philadelphia Magazine, The Bermudian, London Times Express, Islands Magazine, and the online magazine Table Matters where he was also Editor. He has also published academic papers on Tourism and Taste.
He is a former chef and restaurateur with establishments in Philadelphia and Bermuda, a TV and Radio presenter, and Assistant Professor teaching a range of courses, including Gastronomy and Culture, at Drexel University and Delaware Valley University. Reach him at curiouscook77@gmail.com