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The Cook's Vegan

Vegan South American Food

RL

Rich Landau & Kate Jacoby

Rich Landau opened his first vegetarian restaurant in 1994. He and his wife Kate Jacoby are owners and chefs at Vedge.

When I was growing up in the seventies my mom worked as a travel agent. She would bring home travel paraphernalia — posters, brochures, pens, buttons and postcards — with teasing exotic visions of faraway lands. Before I had set foot anywhere in the world other than Florida, I fell in love with the idea of someday traveling the world.

One of my favorite postcards was of the world-famous Copacabana Beach in Brazil. The pictures of it – with the sugar loaf mountain looming in the background and the tropical palms – were haunting, and I remembered them even as an adult. My wife and I named our son Rio, and after saving up enough frequent flier miles we thought it was time to go to Brazil.

We went down in search of the legendary sands of the Copacabana, and we also went in search of food. What we found was a wonderful mix of indigenous South American ingredients with Portuguese influence and often touched with African spice. Like most of the Americas, Brazil is a melting pot – a delicious consequence of exploration and colonization. We found a vegetarian feijoada, Brazil’s national dish, that was served in a clay pot, its spicy fragrant steam mingling with the salt air of the beach footsteps away. The vegetarian version tops stewed black beans with fresh hearts of palm, orange, and collards.

We also found a vegetarian moqueca, a Brazilian classic traditionally made with fish stewed with coconut milk and chilies. The vegetarian version did not disappoint, made with several varieties of squash in a rich coconut broth scented with fresh cilantro, chilies and lime.

Our hotel was located in a hillside neighborhood called Santa Teresa, and in wandering we came across a stunning restaurant built into the hill under the tree tops. There we ordered a dish that the menu described only as “fresh hearts of palm.” We were surprised when a giant roasted heart of palm was brought to our table and carved for us by the server. The beautifully roasted tender chunks of white palm flesh were served with chimichurri, a pesto-like Argentine condiment as ubiquitous in South America as ketchup is in the United States. The flavor was extraordinary compared to canned or jarred hearts of palm. Until you’ve tasted it fresh and local you have not tasted this amazing vegetable. 

Spices in an open air street maket in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Spices in an open air street market in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

One thing we always search for when traveling is spice, chilies and hot sauce. And Brazil might have one of the best hot sauces around. The Malagueta, also known as a piri piri in Portugal is a perfect pepper to make hot sauce out of, tangy, deep and delicious and full of flavor. Not just a simple surface burn but a tingly rich and vibrant taste that wakes up any dish from French fries to deeply layered black bean soups.

Now it was time to get to Copacabana Beach. After having a drink at the Copacabana Palace across the street dusk was coming and we meandered over across the street. There were guitarists strumming bossanova music on the beach promenade and kids playing soccer on the beach. The sun was just during a set and the scene was electric. I was very aware of my feet as they were stepping across the street and on to the promenade and then on to the sands of this real life postcard. After taking it in we found chairs on the promenade at a little cafe. We munched on crunchy biscoito globo, an addictive, crunchy street snack made out of yuca flour, ordered some fried yuca to be a carrier device for the malagueta hot sauce on the table and another round of juicy caipirinhas.

Back home we dove even deeper into South American cuisine, eating it every place we could find here in Philly and in New York and DC. South American cuisine is as varied as European cuisine. Comparing one to the other would be like comparing Spanish to German to French to British. It’s just not done. Peruvian cuisine may be the most fascinating of them all. Birthplace of the potato and home to some of the most extraordinary cooking on the planet. We did a crash course of Peruvian eating in Miami a few years ago and one of our favorite dishes we had was papas huancaini which we translated into our own potato dish for V street. Taking a baked potato and frying them in crispy wedges and topping them with a rich aji Amarillo sauce (Peru’s most famous chile), dried olive, peanut and cilantro. Who in the culinary world can get away with putting peanuts, olives and cilantro on the same dish? The Peruvian chefs can and they pull it off effortlessly in a fascinating mix of flavors and textures that just seem to always work.

Two plates of arepas with Colombian hogao sauce
Arepa Corn Meal Patties with Hogao Sauce

The Colombians and Venezuelans gave us the arepa, the ubiquitous corn cake that most central and South American countries have in some form or another. It’s so simple and yet so delicious,  basically a simple corn pancake cooked on the griddle, then either topped or filled. This gave way to the pupusa in El Salvador and Nicaragua, a fluffier stuffed version of the arepa traditionally served with a pickly cabbage cilantro salad known as vigoron.

corn flour tortillas with cheese and beans inside and vegetable salad and chili tomato sauce
Pupusa

Just like North America, South America seems to be a melting pot of cultural culinary influence from Europe. The Portuguese in Brazil, the Italians in Argentina (where supposedly the pizza rivals Naples), and the Spanish—well, everywhere.

They came with their recipes and embraced the local ingredients and cooked and cooked. Layers of tradition and foreign influence all mingling in the pot. And it’s ours to taste.   

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Carrot Choripan

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A choripan is Argentina’s answer to the hot dog, traditionally done with sausage and topped with, well, everything. It’s a street food classic that we have our own take on with Carrot Asado in place of the meat and a homemade potato roll. The carrots are smoky and succulent, and when paired with this light and fluffy bun, they create an amazingly satisfying “hot dog” just begging to be loaded up with black bean puree and curtido slaw. Why stop there? Add some avocado, hot sauce, onions, and pickles — you know, the works!

  • Servings 6

Ingredients

For the potato rolls:

  • 60 ml (¼ cup) peeled diced baking potato
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) agave syrup
  • 7.5 ml (¾ teaspoon) active dry yeast
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) vegan butter
  • 7.5 ml (¾ teaspoon) sea salt
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) egg replacer powder
  • 355 ml (1½ cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
  • Carrot Asado**
  • (Optional) Sliced avocado, hot sauce, diced onions, and sliced pickles

For the black bean puree:

  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) sunflower oil
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) minced garlic
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) diced onion
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) diced green bell pepper
  • Salt
  • 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) light brown sugar
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) Latin Spice Blend*
  • 7.5 ml (¾ teaspoon) cumin
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) ketchup
  • 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) molasses
  • 156 ml (⅔ cup) vegetable stock

For the curtido:

  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) lemon juice
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) sherry vinegar
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) Dijon mustard
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) sunflower oil
  • 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) freshly ground black pepper
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) sliced scallions (green parts only)
  • 237 ml (1 cup) thinly sliced white cabbage
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) chopped cilantro
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) slivered red onion

* Click for Latin Spice Blend recipe

** Click for Carrot Asado recipe

Preparation

1. For the potato rolls: Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and set aside. Poke holes in the potato with a fork, microwave on high for 1 to 5 minutes, or until fully tender, then mash with a fork. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir together with the agave, yeast, and 30 ml (2 tablespoons) water. Let sit for 5 minutes to allow the yeast to activate, then add the butter, 1.2 ml (1/4 teaspoon) of the salt, egg replacer, and flour. Knead for 4 minutes, until the dough forms a small ball. Place in a lightly greased bowl and cover with a clean kitchen towel, then set in a warm place to proof for 1 hour or until it doubles in size. While the dough is rising, make the black bean puree.

2. For the black bean puree: Heat the sunflower oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, and green pepper and sauté until the onion and garlic caramelize and are golden brown, about 3 minutes. Add 1.2 ml (¼ teaspoon) of the salt, the brown sugar, Latin Spice Blend, 2.5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) of the cumin, the ketchup, molasses, and vegetable stock. Stir until all the ingredients are well combined, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the onions start to become translucent, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool fully. Transfer to a food processor, add the black beans, and pulse until smooth and creamy, about 3 minutes. (May be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

3. For the curtido: Whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, sunflower oil, remaining salt, pepper, and remaining cumin in a large bowl that will hold the curtido. Add the scallions, cabbage, cilantro, and red onion to the dressing and toss until they are evenly coated. Transfer the curtido to an airtight container and chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before serving.

4. Preheat the oven to 204°C (400°F). Return to the potato rolls by transferring the dough from the bowl to a lightly floured work surface. Cut it into 6 balls and form each into a 15 cm (6-inch)- long cylinder. Transfer to the prepared sheet pan and let sit, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Bake the rolls for 10 minutes, or until they are golden brown, rotating the sheet pan halfway through.

5. Remove the rolls from the oven and let cool slightly before slicing and stuffing with the black bean puree, Carrot Asado, and curtido. Garnish with additional toppings as desired and serve.

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Palmito with Malagueta Pepper Sauce

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Brazilian cuisine is still relatively mysterious in America. Exotic and hard-to-pronounce dishes like feijoada and moqueca may seem unapproachable, or the recipes are laden with hard-to-source ingredients such as palm oil or açaí. But Brazilian food deserves a special place in world cuisine as its uniqueness defies comparison. Our most memorable food moment on a trip to Brazil took place in a jaw-dropping outdoor restaurant space etched into the hillside neighborhood of Santa Teresa in Rio. There, we feasted on giant fresh hearts of palm, fileted tableside and served with a simple herb oil. Underneath a canopy of tangled floral vines that danced their way through ancient treetops, we sipped a local pink wine and dipped toasty cassava rolls in just a bit of malagueta pepper sauce. It was divine. This recipe is a little kick-start to bring home some Brazil.

  • Servings 4

Ingredients

  • 45 ml (3 tablespoons) sunflower oil
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) Latin Spice Blend*
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) malagueta pepper sauce (substitute equal parts Tabasco and sriracha)
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) minced garlic
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) dried oregano
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) Worcestershire sauce
  • One 454 grams (16-ounce) can whole hearts of palm (palmito)

* Click for Latin Spice Blend recipe

Preparation

1. If using bamboo skewers (as opposed to metal) soak them in water for at least 30 minutes before grilling.

2. Whisk together the oil, Latin Spice Blend, pepper sauce, garlic, oregano, and Worcestershire sauce in a medium bowl until smooth.

3. Cut each palmito stick into three 4 cm (1 ½ inch) plugs then toss them in the marinade and let them sit for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.

4. Preheat a chargrill to high or a grill pan over high heat and skewer the plugs of palmito, 3 to 5 per stick.

5. Grill the skewers for 3 minutes or until you achieve nice char marks, flipping and rotating once. Serve immediately or chill until ready to serve.

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Peruvian Fries
Peruvian Fries

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When you think of potatoes, chances are that Ireland will come to mind before Peru. But Peru is where the potato started long before it made its way to Europe. And Papas a la Huancaína is perhaps the best example of a Peruvian signature dish, and it serves as the inspiration for our fries. While the uncommon assembly of garnishes (olives, cilantro, and peanuts) gives the dish its spark, the true star is the aji marillo sauce, which helps to make these the creamiest, zestiest “loaded” fries you’ll ever taste!

  • Servings 4

Ingredients

  • 2 to 3 large Idaho potatoes
  • Pinch of kosher salt
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) aji amarillo paste
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) Dijon mustard
  • 118 ml (½ cup) vegan mayo
  • ½ clove garlic
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) chopped shallots
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) olive oil
  • .3 ml (⅛ teaspoon) plus an extra pinch of salt
  • 1.2 ml (¼ teaspoon) freshly ground black pepper
  • .3 ml (⅛ teaspoon) cumin
  • Canola oil for frying
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) chopped roasted, lightly salted peanuts
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) chopped black Beldi olives (substitute any oil-cured black olives)
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped scallions (green parts only)
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) chopped cilantro

Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 232°C (450°F). Sprinkle the potatoes with a pinch of kosher salt, prick 3 or 4 times with a fork, and wrap each in aluminum foil. Bake until they are cooked thoroughly, about 45 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the oven, discard the foil, and allow the potatoes to cool fully, then slice each potato into 6 long wedges. We prefer to keep the skins on for added flavor and texture.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce by combining the aji amarillo paste with the mustard, mayo, garlic, shallot, olive oil, salt, pepper, and cumin in a blender. Blend until smooth. Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

3. Line a plate with paper towels. When ready to serve, preheat a fryer to 190°C (375°F) or heat 1.3 cm (1/2 inch) of the oil in a skillet or large saucepan over high heat. Fry the potatoes in the oil until they are golden brown on all sides, about 2 minutes. Remember that the potatoes are already cooked inside, so the outside just needs some color.

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Carrot Asado

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¡Vamos a un asado! That’s right—we’re going to a barbecue! A Latin one, and we’re gonna grill carrots! Yes, you can coax smoky, gamey flavors out of just about anything if you know what you’re doing. And if you use the right ingredients, you can get a sticky, sweet, and tangy sauce that will impress the most devout carnivore. At V Street, we lacquer all kinds of veggies with the whole gamut of different sauces, spice blends, and marinades, and Carrot Asado is a fan favorite. By leaving the skins on (repeat, do not peel!) and roasting the carrots before grilling, you get a tender texture through the middle and an almost crispy skin on the outside. The effects are always outstanding, and the possibilities are truly endless. So grab some napkins and roll up your sleeves!

  • Servings 4-6

Ingredients

  • 8 to 10 medium carrots, trimmed
  • 45 ml (3 tablespoons) sunflower oil
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) Latin Spice Blend*
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) rice wine vinegar
  • 1.2 ml (¼ teaspoon) cumin
  • 1.2 ml (¼ teaspoon) paprika
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) tamari
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) agave nectar
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) ketchup
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) molasses

* Please click for the Latin Spice blend recipe

Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 204 °C (400°F). Place the carrots in a large bowl with 15 ml (1 tablespoon) of the sunflower oil and the Latin Spice Blend and toss to combine. Arrange the carrots in a single layer on a sheet pan and roast until just tender, about 15 minutes, depending on their size. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool fully.

2. Combine all of the remaining ingredients in a blender with 60 ml (1/4 cup) water and blend until smooth. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

3. When ready to serve, heat a chargrill on high or a grill pan over high heat. Toss the carrots with the glaze, then grill until the sauce caramelizes and the carrots show char marks, turning once or twice, about 4 minutes. Serve immediately.

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Latin Spice Blend

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No home kitchen is without its jar of Cajun, Latin, Southwest, blackening, or other exciting spice blend. There are plenty of great ones out there, and if you have a brand you like, you should stick with it. Just make sure that the first ingredient isn’t salt, as that is usually the sign of an inferior product. If you want to go all-out, we like to use (or build upon) this all-purpose blend for many of our Latin or Southwest dishes.

  • Servings Makes 156 ml (⅔ cup)

Ingredients

  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) paprika
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) ground cumin
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) granulated garlic
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) granulated onion
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) salt
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) freshly ground black pepper
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) dried oregano
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) dried thyme
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) ground chipotle pepper
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) cayenne
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) ground coriander
  • 1.2 ml (¼ teaspoon) ground cloves

Preparation

Using a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder, pulse the ingredients to make a coarse powder. Transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

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RL

Rich Landau & Kate Jacoby

Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby are the husband-and-wife chefs and owners of Vedge, a modern vegetable restaurant that opened in 2011 to rave reviews from diners and critics alike and V Street, a global street food bar where the vegetables remain the center of the dish. Landau has been at the forefront of vegetarian dining since 1994, when he opened his first restaurant. In 2009, he served the first-ever vegan dinner at the James Beard House. In 2015, he was listed as a finalist for the James Beard award for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic. Jacoby is Vedge’s pastry chef and manages its cocktail and wine program. In 2015, she was listed as a semifinalist for the James Beard award for Best Pastry Chef. They live in their native Philadelphia.

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