My grandmother’s kissaten (Japanese tearoom and cafe) served yakisoba –pan-fried noodles coated in a slightly sweet, savory sauce– on a sizzling plate, and whenever I cook yakisoba today, the smell reminds me of my childhood and all the hours spent with her at the kissaten. It’s a quick meal that you can throw together in 30 minutes, making it perfect for a weekday lunch or dinner. The fried egg is optional but highly recommended as the runny yolk becomes part of the sauce and adds a delicious richness. Yakisoba noodles can be found at Japanese or Asian grocery stores, and you can also buy premade yakisoba sauce, but I’m never able to finish the bottle before it expires. So I’ve started making my own with pantry items.
Adapted* from Make it Japanese by Rie McClenny, with Sanaë Lemoine, photographs by Jeni Afuso, Clarkson Potter Publishers, NY 2023
*Metric conversions provided by The Cook’s Cook.
Ingredients
For the yakisoba sauce:
- •60 ml (¼ cup) soy sauce
- •2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
- •2 tablespoons mirin
- •1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
For the yakisoba noodles:
- •8 slices bacon (227 grams/8 ounces total), cut into 2.5 cm (1-inch) pieces
- •4 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated
- •2 carrots, thinly sliced on a diagonal
- •1 yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
- •227 grams (8 ounces/about 2 cups) green cabbage, cut into 2.5 cm (1-inch) pieces
- •Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- •624 grams (22 ounces) fresh yakisoba, chow mein, or ramen noodles (see Spaghetti Baking Soda Hack; recipe follows)
- •4 fried eggs (optional), for serving
Yakisoba is traditionally made with thinly sliced pork belly, which is harder to find in the US. I use bacon instead, which makes the dish a bit saltier. Make sure to taste as you season with salt.
Spaghetti Baking Soda Hack
If you can’t find fresh yakisoba or ramen noodles, try my spaghetti baking soda hack: Add baking soda to the pasta water, which will turn spaghetti a shade darker and provide the flavor and springy texture of ramen.
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons baking soda and 8 ounces dried spaghetti and cook until al dente according to the package directions. Drain the spaghetti and rinse well under cold running water.
2. When cooking the spaghetti, place chopsticks or a wooden spoon over the pot. It’ll keep the water from boiling over the edges of the pot. (When you add baking soda to the water, the water will boil over even more.)
Preparation
1. For the yakisoba sauce: In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, mirin, and hoisin sauce. Set aside.
2. For the yakisoba noodles: Add the bacon to a cold large nonstick skillet. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook until the bacon is crispy, about 4 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a medium bowl.
3. To the same skillet, add the scallion whites and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the carrots and onion and cook until the onion is translucent, about 1 minute. Add the cabbage and scallion greens and cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the vegetables to the bowl with the bacon.
4. To the same skillet, add the yakisoba noodles, stirring to separate the noodles. Cook until slightly crispy, about 3 minutes. Add the yakisoba sauce and toss to combine. Return the vegetables and bacon to the skillet and toss to combine.
5. Divide the noodles among four bowls. If desired, top each one with a fried egg.
Tips
- When you cook bacon, start with a cold skillet. This way, you can slowly render the fat, and the bacon will become evenly crispy.
- It’s important to cook the vegetables and noodles separately to avoid overcrowding the skillet.