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Portuguese Sweet Pepper Paste

AP

Ana Patuleia Ortins

Cookbook author Ana Patuleia Ortins is a first-generation descendant of Portuguese immigrants.

Are you searching for a different ingredient that will bring the flavor of your dish to another level? You need not look beyond fresh sweet red pepper paste. I am not suggesting the use of raw, fried or roasted peppers, the crushed dried chili peppers, cayenne or hot sauces or even sweet paprika. You might, in fact, already have dried peppers and pepper sauces in your arsenal of pepper seasonings.

Massa de pimentão, sweet red pepper paste, is a briny conserve that is well-known among Portuguese cooks, especially those from the Alentejo region on the Portuguese mainland. A spoonful of the paste added judiciously to seasoning rubs, dishes of poultry, fish, meats, or even rice, potatoes or scrambled eggs, imparts a distinctive flavor. Combining it with paprika, and even a dash or two of hot sauce, gives a dish another dimension.

Portuguese Sweet Red Pepper Sauce    Courtesy photo

Carne de porco à Alentejana (Alentejo-style pork with clams) is an iconic dish of the Alentejo to which the sweet red pepper paste adds unique flavor. The paste is easy to make but needs a minimum of three or four days of standing to allow the salted peppers to drain.

My Experience

As a young girl, at the age of 10, I learned to make this traditional paste under the tutelage of my father, just as he did under the watchful eye of my grandmother and as she learned before him. I embraced his lessons as we cut and seeded the peppers, and discussed — what else? — cooking. Carrying on the teaching tradition, I explained to my children, and then my grandchildren, that making the paste yourself insures the quality of the peppers and the salt that is used. But yes, you can purchase a commercial brand in a Portuguese market or online. Be sure the ingredients are just salt and peppers.

Equipment

The only equipment needed is a wooden box and a stainless steel or non-corrosive sheet pan. My father used slatted wooden boxes obtained from produce markets. Your local market may have some. They are more difficult to get today than in the past, but if you are a handy person, all you need to make this box are .6 cm (¼ inch) thick maple or pine slats.

For the base, 2.5 cm (1 inch) by .6 cm (¼ inch) slats are tacked or stapled .6 cm (¼ inch) apart to a 23 cm (9 inch) x 30 cm (12 inch) x 7.6 cm (3 inch) rectangular frame, leaving a narrow space between the vertical sides and the base edge for drainage. The 30 cm (12 inch) sides of the frame are made up of two 3 cm (1¼ inch) slats spaced .6 cm (¼ inch) apart. If all else fails, use a large rectangular, fine mesh footed sieve that is often used to straddle a sink. Line the sieve with a single or double layer of cheese cloth. This will retain the salt but allow drainage. If you make the cloth lining too thick it will not allow proper drainage.   

Massa de Pimentão (Sweet Pepper Paste)

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Ingredients

  • 4 large sweet red peppers, cored, seeded, cut into 5 cm (2 inch) strips
  • 1.3 kg (3 pounds) coarse kosher salt (not pickling or table salt)
  • 118 ml (1/2 cup) extra virgin olive oil
  • Two 237 ml (8-ounce) jelly jars, sterilized
  • One 28 x 46 cm (11 x 18 inch) non-corrosive sheet pan with 2.5 cm (1 inch) sides
  • One 23 x 30 cm (9 x 12 inch) wood slatted box or footed sieve
  • Cheese cloth, if using sieve

Preparation

1. Set wooden box or sieve onto one end of sheet pan. Pour a 2.5 cm (1 inch) layer of coarse salt across the bottom of the box or lined sieve. From this point, do not move the box or sieve. Once the base salt is added, like assembling a jigsaw puzzle, place the pepper slices skin side up, onto the salt, making sure to uncurl even the smallest part of the pepper, otherwise mold will form. Lightly press the slices onto the salt.

2. Once the layer of peppers is completed, cover the peppers with a 1.3 cm (½ inch) layer of salt. Make a second layer of peppers, finishing with another 1.3 cm (½ inch) layer of salt, completely covering the peppers. Cover with wax paper and place heavy dishes on top to weigh it down. Move the sheet pan near a sink. Place a thick wooden spoon or two under the sheet pan to raise the box end. Let stand up to 5 days. When ready, drainage will have slowed to a trickle and peppers will be very thin.

3. Do not rinse the peppers. Simply wipe off excess salt. Process the peppers in a meat grinder, blender or food processor until fairly fine. Pack in the jars to within 2.5 cm (1 inch) of top. Top off with the olive oil and seal tightly. May be stored in the refrigerator for at least 6 to 9 months. To use, push aside any congealed olive oil, remove what you need, depending on the recipe then top off jar with more olive oil, recover and store.

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Carne de Porco à Alentejana (Pork with Clams Alentejo Style)
Carne de Porco à Alentejana (Pork with Clams Alentejo Style)

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The dish, although it originated in the Algarve, is named for the meat of the Alentejo black pigs raised on truffles.

Succulent sautéed pieces of marinated pork somehow work so well with briny clams. It all comes together in a zesty garlic-and-wine-based broth infused with sweet pepper paste, paprika and, most importantly, fresh chopped cilantro. This dish is often served in restaurants with fried cubed potatoes. It is a great one pot dish to serve for guests.

Note: Begin this recipe one day before serving, as the meat will need to marinate overnight.

  • Servings Serves 6

Ingredients

To marinate the pork:

  • 8 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) paprika
  • 1 bay leaf, crumbled
  • 1.25 ml (¼ teaspoon) freshly ground black pepper
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) finely chopped fresh cilantro
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) Sweet Pepper Paste (see recipe)
  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) hot pepper sauce
  • 1.2 kg (2½ pounds) pork tenderloin, trimmed of silver skin, and cut into 5 cm (2 inch) pieces
  • 237 ml (1 cup) white wine

To finish and serve:

  • 118 ml (½ cup) olive oil, or as needed
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 237 ml (1 cup) peeled, seeded, coarsely chopped tomato
  • 1 garlic clove, smashed
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) paprika
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) tomato paste
  • 237 ml (1 cup) white wine
  • 24 parboiled baby boiling potatoes (Red Bliss or creamers)
  • 1.4 kg (3 pounds) small littleneck or steamer clams (see Note), 5 to 7.6 cm (2 to 3 inches) in diameter, about 6 per person, well-scrubbed
  • 60 ml (¼ cup) finely chopped cilantro
  • Crusty bread, for serving
  • Olives, for serving
  • Lemon wedges, for serving

Note: If using steamer clams, time them for 12-15 minutes. If using littlenecks larger than 2 ½ to 3 inches, allow an extra minute or two to cook.

Preparation

1. To marinate the pork: The day before serving, use a mortar and pestle to crush the garlic with the paprika, bay leaf, black pepper, cilantro, Sweet Pepper Paste, and hot pepper sauce. Continue to mash into a paste. Place the pork into a non-reactive bowl and add the paste, coating the meat well. Add the wine so that it just covers the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least several hours, preferably overnight.

2. To finish and serve: Remove the meat from the refrigerator about 45 minutes before cooking. Reserving the marinade, drain the pork into a sieve set over a separate bowl. Strain the marinade and set aside.

3. Heat the olive oil in a 36 cm (14 inch) wide heavy bottom pan or cataplana pan, paella pan or braising pan over medium-high heat. Brown the pork in small batches, 5 to 8 minutes per batch. Transfer the browned meat to a dish and cover.

4. To the same pan, add the onions and sauté until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, garlic and paprika. Cover and simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir in the reserved marinade. Mix the tomato paste with wine and stir in to the onions and tomatoes. Simmer for 1 minute. Transfer the meat back to the pan and add the parboiled potatoes.

5. Nestle the clams in between the meat and potatoes, then cover tightly. Simmer over medium-low heat until the meat is fork tender, the potatoes have taken on the flavor of the sauce and the clams are opened, 15 to 20 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open. Set the pan on the table and serve directly from the pan, garnish with finely chopped cilantro. Serve with bread and olives on the side and lemon wedges to squeeze some juice over the dish if desired.

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Potatoes Roasted with Sweet Pepper Paste

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  • Servings Serves 6

Ingredients

  • 2 garlic cloves, halved
  • 5 ml (1 teaspoon) sweet paprika
  • 13 ml (1 scant tablespoon) Sweet Red Pepper Paste (see recipe*)
  • 1 bay leaf crumbled
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) finely chopped parsley
  • 1.25 ml (¼ teaspoon) ground black pepper
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) white wine
  • 30 ml (2 tablespoons) olive oil
  • 6 medium-large Red Bliss or other roasting potatoes, peeled, rinsed, patted dry
  • Salt

*Sweet Pepper Paste

Preparation

1. Preheat oven 190°C (375°F).

2. With a mortar and pestle, mash the garlic with the paprika, forming a paste. Incorporate the pepper paste, bay leaf, parsley, black pepper, and wine. Drizzle in the olive oil, and mix into a spreadable paste.

3. Cut potatoes into quarters. In a bowl, mix the potatoes with the seasoning paste, turning to coat completely. Transfer to a roasting pan or baking dish and cover with foil. Roast for 30 minutes in the preheated oven, remove foil, turn the potatoes and continue to roast for 30 minute more, uncovered, until tender. Season with salt if needed.

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AP

Ana Patuleia Ortins

Ana Patuleia Ortins is the author of Portuguese Homestyle Cooking and Authentic Portuguese Cooking, collections of traditional Portuguese recipes. A first-generation descendant of Portuguese immigrants, she grew up with the lore and traditions attached to the food of her ancestors. Under the guidance of her father, aunt, and grandmother, Ana started her culinary training as a young child, going on to hold a degree in culinary arts. Frequent visits to Portugal and the Azore Islands reinforce her love of Portuguese food. Visit www.Portuguesecooking.com or email: ana@portuguesecooking.com.

Courtesy photo

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