Caramel Chicken, Mushrooms, and Ginger

Much of Vietnamese cooking is based on simplicity, requiring just a few ingredients. This is an interpretation of a classic northern Viet kho. During the quick simmering, the chicken releases its juices to create a sauce which the mushrooms then absorb. Serve with lots of rice and stir-fried or steamed vegetables.

1. 1. For the caramel sauce: In a small heavy saucepan, combine vinegar and sugar with 30 ml water. Cook over medium heat, stirring often. When the sugar has dissolved, stop stirring. Let the mixture bubble vigorously for 5 to 6 minutes. Turn the heat to medium low to slow the cooking. Use an exhaust fan to to vent the inevitable smoke. Cook the syrup for about two minutes longer, until it reaches the color of dark tea. Continue a minute or two longer until a color of between inky red wine and dark coffee is reached. Remove from heat and set in a bowl or large pan of cold water to stop the cooking. The water should reach halfway up the outside of the hot pan. Leaving the pan in the water, add 60 ml (1/4 cup) water. When the bubbling stops, blot the bottom of the pan on a dish towel, then set on medium-high heat. Cook briefly, stirring to loosen and dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from heat and return to bowl of water for about 1 minute, stirring to stop the cooking. Let cool to room temperature.

2. For the chicken with ginger: In a mixing bowl, combine the chicken, ginger, caramel sauce, fish sauce, and salt. Stir to coat. Set a large saucepan over medium heat and add oil. When the oil begins to ripple, add the shallots and cook, stirring frequently for about two minutes until about half the pieces are golden. Add the mushrooms and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until glistening. Add the chicken and ginger mixture, stir to combine, pour in 120 ml (1/2 cup) water, and stir again to distribute.

3. Cover the pan and bring to a strong simmer. Stir again, then replace the lid. Cook for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Uncover and continue cooking for 3 to 5 minutes until the sauce reduces and the color deepens. Remove from heat, cover, and let rest for five minutes. Stir in the scallions so they wilt slightly in the steamy heat. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.