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A Chef Writes

Hoppin’ John for the New Year

JJ

JJ Johnson

Chef JJ presents an environment for connection through food that transcends people, memories, and generations.

Hoppin’ John on New Year’s day means good luck in the year ahead.

The following is excerpted from the essay The Kingdom of Rice, in the acclaimed cookbook, Between Heaven and Harlem by JJ Johnson and Alexander Smalls.

If we traveled the world from Africa to Asia and all the points of the diaspora, we could eat only rice and we would not starve. On the contrary, we would feast. We could start on New Year’s Day in Charleston, South Carolina, where certainly we would eat hoppin’ John, the traditional holiday meal of black-eyed peas and rice, seasoned with a bit of smoked pork. The dish is considered a symbol of good fortune for the year ahead. As culinary historian Jessica B. Harris explains in her wonderful essay “Prosperity begins with a Pea,” although some historians connect hoppin’ John to the way it sustained the hungry during the Civil War, “For African Americans, the connection between beans and fortune is surely complex. Perhaps, because black-eyed peas can be germinated, having some extra on hand at the New Year guaranteed sustenance provided by a new crop of the fast-growing vines. The black-eyed pea and rice combination also forms a complete protein, offering all the amino acids. During slavery, one ensured of such nourishment was lucky indeed.”

From the book Between Harlem and Heaven by JJ Johnson and Alexander Smalls. Copyright © 2018 by JJ Johnson and Alexander Smalls. Reprinted with permission from Flatiron Books. All rights reserved. 

Spicy Black-Eyed Pea Recipe
"Hoppin' John" by jeffreyw is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

Print This Recipe

This dish infuses traditional black-eyed peas with the Afro-Asian flavors that are at the heart of “Between Harlem and Heaven:” cumin and cilantro, bird’s-eye chile and lime. You can use canned peas for ease and not sacrifice any of the bold flavors. It’s a comforting weeknight dish that will also hold pride of place at any Sunday supper.

From the book Between Harlem and Heaven by JJ Johnson and Alexander Smalls. Copyright © 2018 by JJ Johnson and Alexander Smalls. Reprinted with permission from Flatiron Books. All rights reserved. 

  • Prep 20 minutes
  • Cook 40 minutes
  • Servings 6 cups

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 cup diced red onion
  • kosher salt
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 cup diced carrot
  • 1/2 cup diced celery
  • 1 bird's-eye chile, diced, with seeds
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/4 cup canned chipotles in adobo, with their sauce
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
  • 3 cups cooked black-eyed peas, or 2 (15-ounce) cans black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained
  • 4 cups vegetable stock
  • juice and zest of 1 lime, zest removed in large pieces with a vegetable peeler (11/2 tablespoons juice)
  • freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

In a 6-quart pot heat the oil over medium high heat. Add the onion, sprinkle with salt, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the carrot, celery, chile, and cuin and cook for 2 additional minutes.

Add the chipotles in adobo and break the chiles up with a wooden spoon, Bring to a simmer and cook to reduce the sauce down for 1 minute.

Add the cilantro and peas, then pour in the stock. Add the lime juice and zest and bring to a simmer, then lower the heat to medium.

Let the beans simmer for about 30 minutes, uncovered, until the sauce is reduced but the beans still hold their shape. Remove the pieces of lime zest. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

JJ

JJ Johnson

JJ Johnson is a James Beard Award-Winning Chef, TV personality and author known for barrier-breaking cuisine informed by the Caribbean flavors of his upbringing. At FIELDTRIP, his made-to-order rice bowl concept in Harlem and Rockefeller Center, JJ highlights rice as a hero ingredient in globally inspired recipes. JJ is the host of ‘Just Eats with Chef JJ’ on Cleo TV and finalist for the 2022 James Beard Awards ‘Best Chef in New York State’. He serves on the James Beard Impact Programs Advisory Committee and sits on the junior board of Food Bank for New York City, taking action to end hunger.

Read more from JJ Johnson

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