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Wild About Shrimp

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Denise Landis

Denise Landis is the founder & CEO of The Cook's Cook.

We are wild ab out shrimp.

In the growing movement to cook with local products, there is the dilemma of what to do about foods that simply aren’t grown or harvested in one’s immediate neighborhood. For the ingredients we need that are not in our metaphorical backyard, it means reaching out for what’s nearest, freshest, and best. For seafood lovers in the United States, that means wild American shrimp.

Wild American shrimp are found in the warm waters of the Gulf coast and South Atlantic. Harvested since the early 1800s, they have been a major ingredient in traditional American foodways, particularly in the Gulf coast region where they have been an essential ingredient in classic Creole and Cajun dishes, from fried shrimp po’ boy subs to gumbo.

While imported shrimp remain ubiquitous in supermarkets, the past ten years have seen a growing preference for Gulf shrimp. Today over 250 million pounds are harvested each year.

For some, the incentive for cooking with wild American shrimp is a combined patriotism and a desire to support the national economy. Others see it as buying from their neighbors, a way of reinforcing connections to community, history, and the farm-to-table movement. But for many, it’s simply about seeking the best in freshness and flavor.

There are three types of wild American shrimp: white, brown, and pink. They vary in color and flavor, each prized for its characteristics. White shrimp, found in brackish waters and estuaries, have a mild flavor and are favored by Southern chefs for a wide variety of dishes. Brown shrimp, found near the bottom of nutrient-rich Gulf and South Atlantic waters, have a more robust flavor favored by Northeast consumers. Pink shrimp, harvested off the coast of Florida, are valued for their sweetness and delicate texture.

Peak season for harvesting is May through December for inshore fisheries. Offshore harvesting takes place year-round, with shrimp usually frozen immediately upon landing in order to preserve freshness.

George Fontinos purchases 40,000 pounds of shrimp a month for his six Harbor Inn restaurants in North Carolina. Except for a short period in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, when shrimping was suspended, he has always used wild American shrimp. Though their flavor is superior to most imports, he says, the difference goes beyond that.

“Imports can be very good,” he said. “But with domestic shrimp the quality is easier to control. Imports don’t hold moisture as well, they tend to dry out.”

For a chef who is broiling, grilling, and frying up thousands of pounds of shrimp a week, consistency in moisture and flavor is essential. “Especially when it comes to frying,” Fontinos said. “You’ll notice a difference even in one extra minute of cooking.”

Nicholas Calias, Director of Food and Beverages and Corporate Executive Chef of The Colonnade Hotel in Boston, Massachusetts, explained his preference for wild American shrimp. “Wild United States shrimp have a more pronounced flavor than imported farm-raised [shrimp], allowing chefs to bring bigger flavors to the table and our guests’ palates without having to do as much with the shrimp.”

Wild American shrimp can be identified by the Wild American Shrimp logo or by designation of Wild Caught Gulf Shrimp. They are available in the frozen seafood section of grocery stores and specialty food stores, including Amazon/Whole Foods, Wal-Mart, Sam’s, Wegman’s, Winn-Dixie, HEB, Earth’s Fire, Price Chopper, and Harris Teeter.

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Gulf Shrimp Gumbo
Gulf Shrimp Gumbo

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Inspired by Alton Brown

  • Servings Serves 8 to 10

Ingredients

  • .9 kg (2 pounds) medium (31/35) wild American brown shrimp
  • 2 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, cored, and chopped
  • 90 ml (⅓ cup) vegetable oil
  • 37 grams (⅓ cup) all-purpose flour
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 2 stalks celery, diced
  • ½ cup diced green bell pepper
  • 6 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves picked from the stems
  • ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 2 bay leaves
  • .45 kg (1 pound) andouille sausage, cut into .6 cm (¼-inch) pieces and browned
  • 1 tablespoon file powder

Preparation

1. Peel and devein the shrimp, placing the shells in a large saucepan. Cover the shrimp and refrigerate until needed. Add 2.3 liters (10 cups) of water to the shells, and bring to a simmer over medium heat; pressing the shells under the water with spoon. Allow the shells to simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, then strain into a heatproof bowl and discard the shells.

2. While the shells are simmering, bring a small pan of water to a boil. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 20-30 seconds. Drain, rinse under cold water, and rub off the skins. Core the tomatoes and dice coarsely; set aside.

3. In a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the flour and stir constantly until the flour is golden brown but not burned, 5-8 minutes. Add the onion, celery, bell peppers, and garlic. Stir for another 2 minutes.

4. Add the tomatoes, salt, black pepper, thyme, cayenne pepper, and bay leaves. Gradually pour in the shrimp broth, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until the mixture has reduced and thickened, about 30 minutes.

5. Add the sausage and shrimp. Stir in the file powder, and turn off the heat. Cover and allow to sit until the shrimp are firm and opaque, about 10 minutes. If desired, serve over white rice.

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Baked Stuffed Shrimp
Baked Stuffed Shrimp

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  • Servings Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

  • 16 to 20 Colossal (U-12) wild American shrimp, peeled and deveined with tail left on
  • 6 tablespoons butter
  • 33 grams (⅓ cup) finely chopped celery
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 150 grams (1½ cups) coarsely crushed crackers
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Fresh lemon juice, as needed

Preparation

1. Preheat an oven to 177° C/350° F. Cut carefully through the back curve of each shrimp enough to butterfly it and press it open without cutting all the way through. Place the shrimp around a round shallow baking dish so that the tails meet in the center.

2. Place the cracker crumbs in a bowl and set aside. In a skillet over low heat, melt the butter. Add the celery, onion, and garlic, and sauté until the onion is tender. Pour the butter and vegetables into the bowl of cracker crumbs, and mix well. Add the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Place an equal portion of stuffing onto each shrimp, mounding it lightly. Bake until the shrimp are cooked and the stuffing is lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat, drizzle with lemon juice, and serve.

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Grilled Skewered Wild Shrimp
Grilled Skewered Wild Shrimp

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The secret to making this recipe is in using tiny tomatoes that are the same size as the olives. If you don’t have a grill, a broiler will also give excellent results.

  • Servings Makes 4 - 6 servings

Ingredients

  • Wooden or bamboo skewers
  • .9 kg (2 pounds) extra-large (16/20) brown or white wild American shrimp
  • 8 large pitted kalamata olives
  • 8 large pitted green olives
  • About 16 small round red, yellow, and orange tomatoes
  • 71 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 small clove garlic, minced
  • ½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
  • ½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
  • Coarse salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

1. Place the skewers in water to soak for about 30 minutes, and prepare a grill.

2. To prepare the skewered shrimp, place a shrimp on a flat surface and put an olive in the center of the curve. Slide a skewer through one end of the shrimp, continuing through the olive and through the other end of the shrimp. Repeat with more shrimp until the skewer is filled, each time using a tomato or olive of a different color. Continue, using remaining shrimp, olives, and tomatoes.

3. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, thyme, and lemon. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Brush the shrimp, olives, and tomatoes on all sides with the seasoned oil.

4. Grill, turning once, until the shrimp are just cooked, 1 to 2 minutes.

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Denise Landis

Denise Landis had been employed as an archeologist for seven years before a food editor hired her to test some recipes from a cookbook manuscript. This short stint led to longer assignments, and two years later she began testing recipes for the New York Times. She has been a professional recipe tester and editor for over 25 years, is the author of a New York Times cookbook, and has written for numerous publications. She is a member of the New York Chapter of Les Dames d’ Escoffier.

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