When people talk about Indian food, they usually rush straight to the spices. And fair enough. Cumin, coriander, turmeric, fenugreek, cardamom… they deserve their spotlight. But if you stop there, you’re missing half the story.
Because Indian food doesn’t just sing in spices. It swims in fat.
Fat is the vehicle. The interpreter. The bridge between heat and flavor. And in Indian kitchens, the fat you choose isn’t just a cooking medium. It’s a declaration of region, identity, and intent.
You could have the same masala and completely change the personality of the dish just by switching the fat. That’s not exaggeration. That’s chemistry, culture, and craft.
So let’s talk about four of the heavy hitters: ghee, sesame oil, mustard oil, and coconut oil. Each one has a story. Each one has rules. And each one has the power to make or break a dish.
Ghee: The Golden Standard
Ghee is the backbone of North Indian cooking. Clarified butter, yes. But it’s so much more than that. When you slowly simmer butter until the milk solids caramelize and the water content vanishes, you’re left with liquid gold. Nutty, rich, slightly sweet. And shelf-stable.
Ghee is what you reach for when you want warmth. Not just temperature, but tone. It wraps spices in silk. It’s perfect for dal tadka, finishing biryanis, or coaxing deep flavor out of whole spices like cloves and cardamom.
And unlike butter, ghee doesn’t burn at high heat. That means you can use it for roasting, frying, and long simmers without worrying about acrid notes creeping in.
In religious ceremonies, ghee is sacred. In food, it’s a soft embrace. If fat had a maternal instinct, it would be ghee.
Pro tip: always bloom your spices in ghee when making khichdi or dal. You’ll smell the difference before you even taste it.
Mustard Oil: The Rebel of the East
Mustard oil is not gentle. It shows up, loud and unapologetic, with a peppery punch that can clear your sinuses if you’re not ready.
It’s essential in Bengali, Odia, and northeastern cuisines. You’ll find it in fish curries, pickles, and stir-fried greens. When raw, it’s nose-tingling. But when heated properly, it mellows into something earthy, deep, and aromatic. A flavor all its own.
Here’s the thing most people don’t know. Mustard oil has to be tempered. Heat it until it reaches its smoking point, then let it cool slightly before cooking. This process kills the bitterness and releases its signature aroma.
Use it when you want a dish to punch back. It works beautifully in mustard-heavy gravies, meat marinades, and sharp chutneys.
Aloo posto without mustard oil? It would miss the soul of the dish.
Even something as simple as a mustard oil drizzle on raw onions and green chili with a pinch of salt? That’s not a garnish, that is a requirement.
Coconut Oil: The Coastal Cool
Go south and everything changes. The spices shift, the acidity rises, and the fat? Almost always coconut oil.
It’s light, floral, and carries the memory of palm trees and monsoon markets. In Kerala, it’s the soul of fish moilee and avial. In Tamil Nadu, it coats stir-fried vegetables and powders.
Unlike ghee or mustard oil, coconut oil doesn’t overpower. It lifts. It adds fragrance without weight. Used right, it enhances aromatics like curry leaves, dried red chilies, mustard seeds, and urad dal.
But not all coconut oil is created equal. You want cold-pressed, unrefined, full of aroma. Refined coconut oil is a mute version of its true self.
And don’t overdo it. Coconut oil is best when you let it lead quietly. It’s a conductor, not a soloist.
Sesame Oil: The Earthy Underdog
Also known as gingelly oil in the south, sesame oil brings a deep, roasted flavor that’s instantly recognizable. It’s used in Tamil and Telugu cooking to flavor tamarind-heavy dishes like puliyodarai or to finish kootus and pickles. Nutty, slightly bitter, and grounding, sesame oil anchors flavors instead of lifting them. It plays beautifully with jaggery, tamarind, and black pepper, offering an earthy counterbalance to acidic or sweet elements. It’s not for everything, but when it works, it works like nothing else can.
Using the Wrong Fat Can Ruin the Dish
This isn’t just about taste. It’s about harmony. Try cooking chole in coconut oil. It won’t feel right. Use mustard oil in a South Indian sambar, and the whole dish feels confused. Fat isn’t neutral. It speaks.
I’ve spent over a decade cooking and researching Indian cuisine, and one of the biggest lessons I’ve learned is this: Indian food is architecture. You’re not just tossing flavors together. You’re building a structure. And fat is one of the first bricks you lay.
The Soul of Spice, my upcoming book, digs deep into this kind of nuance. The little choices, the oil you bloom in, the order you add ingredients, the way you finish a dish, those choices are everything. They’re what separate food that tastes Indian from food that feels Indian.
A Quick Reference for Choosing the Right Fat
• Ghee: Use for North Indian dishes, dals, khichdi, biryani, sweets. Adds richness and warmth.
• Mustard Oil: Use for Bengali, Odia, Assamese food. Great with fish, sharp greens, and mustard-based gravies.
• Coconut Oil: Use in Kerala, Tamil, and coastal recipes. Balances light vegetables, fish stews, and stir-fries.
Start paying attention to the fat, not just the spice. That’s where the transformation begins.
Because the truth is, anyone can buy garam masala. But knowing which fat to use?
That’s when you start cooking like someone who understands the soul of Indian food. 
