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Family Meal

Dia De Los Muertos

DV

David Vargas

In Mexican culture we are always celebrating family. Dia De Los Muertos is different in that it is a special day to honor those who have passed but this was strange to me as a kid because honoring your family and loved ones is something that you did everyday. I grew to love the tradition of Dia De Los Muertos as I got older because I began to understand it more and gain a greater appreciation for such traditions.

Dia De Los Muertos was a very normal family gathering in my household growing up. Sports were always on and everyone brought food for the buffet. We always shared conchas, Mexican sweet bread, and atole, a traditional cornmeal beverage. Conchas and atole were a long standing tradition for the Vargas family. We did not make an altar but instead had a mantle with family photos. There was nothing in particular that we did growing up that was special to observe the day instead it was much the same as our Sunday church tradition.

I grew up in a strong, traditional Catholic family. We attended church every Sunday, 6:45 a.m. service. I was an altar boy and every Sunday after service we went out to breakfast; me in my suit and tie, everyone else in their Sunday best. After, it was standard for everyone to congregate back at our family home. There were easily thirty to forty people every Sunday. Inevitably, there would be more food. Worship, family, food. Honor, family, food.

As I grew into adulthood I moved away from Catholicism but did continue honoring my loved ones for Dia De Los Muertos. The celebration has not really changed for me but my understanding of why we celebrate has deepened and become more meaningful especially once I became a father.

It was extremely important to me to pass on the tradition to my kids. I wanted to be sure that they understand and celebrate their heritage because regionally, here in the Northeast USA, there is not the same Mexican American community or culture as in Southern California where I was raised. Every year, we make our ofrenda, altar, and decorate the table together as a family. We share stories and memories so that we will not forget and so that my kids understand where they came from.

Dia De Los Muertos forces you to recognize and acknowledge your ancestors. Each year, it asks me to remember those who struggled before me, people like my father who immigrated to the U.S. from Mexico, in order to afford me the beautiful, blessed life I have today.

Vegan Vanilla Conchas

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Ingredients

For the conchas:

  • 10 ml (2 teaspoons) active dry yeast
  • 148 ml (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) soy milk, at room temperature
  • 503 ml (2 cups plus 2 tablespoons) bread flour
  • 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) salt
  • 118 ml (½ cup) granulated sugar
  • 71 ml (1/3 cup) cooked mashed sweet potato
  • 118 ml (½ cup) vegan butter

For the topping:

  • 71 ml (1/3 cup) vegan butter
  • 71 ml (1/3 cup) granulated sugar
  • 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) vanilla extract
  • 118 ml (½ cup) all-purpose flour
  • 2.5 ml (½ teaspoon) ground cinnamon

Preparation

  1. For the conchas: In a medium bowl, dissolve the yeast in the soy milk. Let sit 5 minutes.

2. In the bowl of a mixer, with the dough hook, combine the dry ingredients: the flour, salt, and sugar. Mix to blend.

3. Add the mashed sweet potato to the yeast-milk mixture, and whisk to combine. Add to the flour mixture and mix on low until the dough begins to come together, about 3 minutes. Add the softened butter little by little and increase speed to medium. Mix for 15 minutes, until the dough has come off the sides of the bowl and is smooth and stretchy but not sticky (if the dough is too sticky add a little more flour).

4. Place the dough in a large oiled bowl, cover with a towel and let rise for 1 hour, or until doubled in size. Punch down the dough and fold the side over unto each other and flip. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

5. The next day take the dough from the fridge, remove the plastic wrap and cover with a towel. Let rise in a warm place 21-24°C (70-75°F) until the dough comes to room temperature, about an hour.

6. Divide the dough into 10 pieces weighing about 70 grams (2.5 ounces), and set aside, roll them tightly into rounds and place on a sheet tray lined with parchment. Press down on the rounds to form a dome shape.

7. For the topping: Cream butter and sugar with a whisk or hand mixer. Add vanilla, flour, and cinnamon and mix well. Knead lightly to fully incorporate. It should have the consistency of a soft play-dough. If it’s too sticky or wet add flour in small amounts until you’ve reached the right consistency.

8. Divide topping into 10 balls the size of a large gum-ball. Take two sheet of plastic wrap, and one at a time place a ball of the topping between the two plastic sheets and press down with hand until it is large enough to cover the top of concha. Peel one side of the plastic wrap off, then take the piece of plastic wrap with the topping on it and place it down on the concha. Slowly peel of the plastic wrap. Repeat this process until all 10 conchas are done.

9. Using a concha cutter, dusted with flour, press down on the topping and the concha to make the design. (Don’t be afraid to press down hard and flatten the concha a little.) Preheat oven to 177°C (350°F). Let conchas rise for 40 min. in a warm place 21-24°C (70-75°F) or until doubled in size.

10. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 20 -25 min. or until the sides and bottoms of your conchas are golden brown.

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Vegan Espresso Atole

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Ingredients

  • 946 ml (4 cups) cold brew espresso
  • 118 ml (1/2 cup) oat milk
  • 45 ml (3 tablespoons) fresh masa pureed with 45 ml (3 tablespoons) water
  • 15 ml (1 tablespoon) agave syrup

Preparation

In a non-reactive pot heat all ingredients gently. With a whisk, whisk until atole froths up, thickens up slightly and is warm through. Pour into a coffee cup and enjoy.

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DV

David Vargas

David Vargas brings his Mexican heritage and appreciation for local seasonal New England product to every plate at Vida Cantina in Portsmouth, NH where he is the chef/owner. A James Beard nominated chef, (2020, 2019) David grew up in Southern California and has spent a lifetime learning, living and sharing his Mexican heritage. David’s mother is from Guadalajara, his father from Jalisco; in California together his parents owned a taqueria and were California police officers. David grew up in the family’s taqueria; cooking family recipes with fresh local ingredients, while learning all he could about his Mexican culture. It was important to David’s parents that he appreciate his Mexican heritage. Locally, regionally and nationally, the critics agree that Chef David Vargas is shining a bright light on Mexican cuisine.

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