Recipes, Techniques, and Plant Science for Big-Flavored, Vegetable-Focused Meals
As a self-identified science nerd, I was excited to learn about Nik Sharma’s newest book, Veg-table.
I was already a fan of Nik Sharma, having read his book, Flavor Equation from cover to cover. I was excited when I heard he had written a book focusing on vegetables. While there is no shortage of science in Veg-table, the new book feels more like a collection of creative recipes from an author with expertise in the chemistry of cooking. Sharma is trained as a molecular biologist who has combined his technical knowledge with a keen understanding of spices and flavors. It’s a combination that adds up to some really great and interesting results.
The science
translates into things like techniques for streamlining recipes and prep, tips for extending the life of vegetables in storage by understanding how they break down, and the inclusion of ingredient weights throughout.
The recipes
feature frequent use of umami-rich ingredients like miso, preserved lemon, fish sauce, soy sauce, anchovy paste, parmesan, Worcestershire, tamarind paste, feta, capers and the like. He also makes use of a wide variety of spices. Many of them – like mustard seeds, garam masala, amchur, nigella and Kashmiri chili powder – are influenced by the author’s roots in India. Sharma has a great instinct for combining these disparate components in surprising ways that ultimately work really well.
Pasta recipes
include Shallot + Spicy Mushroom Pasta, Spaghetti with Roasted Tomato Miso Sauce, Cauliflower Bolognese.
I chose to make Pasta with Broccoli Miso Sauce. I loved the way the miso worked with the preserved lemon and parmesan as flavor enhancers. With all that umami, I did not miss meat at all, although I did find myself musing about adding some texture the next time (and there will be a next time!) Perhaps some pine nuts or toasted breadcrumbs? As in many of the other recipes in the book, he suggests using Aleppo, Maras, or Urfa red pepper flakes rather than the more typical hot chili flakes. I used Urfa, which I think gave the dish a subtle, fruity, and nuanced taste.
Nik Sharma’s technique
of incorporating butter in order to leverage the milk proteins helps create a nonstick surface on the pan. When cooking fish, this keeps the salmon meat moist and the skin crispy. As with many of the recipes, ideas for modifications and substitutions abound.
Flexibility is a key attribute of Veg-table. The idea is to use what you have, and to make your time in the kitchen more enjoyable.
Flexibility is a key attribute of Veg-table by Nik Sharma.
Some recipes have been ‘veganized’ or vegan substitutions suggested. Crispy spiced chickpeas are suggested instead of the usual croutons in a sweet potato kale Caesar salad. Shortcuts like using pre-chopped garlic and as few pots and pans as possible are embraced, as are frozen or canned vegetables at times. The idea is to use what you have, and to make your time in the kitchen more enjoyable.
The book is organized by type of vegetable
so you can start by seeing what’s available to you and look for a way to use it. I like the concept, although I found some of the chapter groupings odd. Cucumber and squash, or bamboo and corn might belong together scientifically, but I doubt most people think of them in those pairings when looking for a recipe.
Unlike most cookbooks, the recipes are formatted with ingredients in bold and quantities embedded in the directions, which are printed as indented paragraphs. Shopping and prepping seems a bit more difficult without access to a separate ingredient list. But despite my initial resistance, I did find it easy to follow along while cooking.
I’m looking forward to trying more recipes from the book.
Sharma has a great instinct for combining these disparate components in surprising ways that ultimately work really well.
Crispy Salmon with Green Curry Spinach
“My aunt Elaine is a firm believer that salmon should not be used in curries because it becomes unpleasantly firm, unlike many other fish. But what if the salmon is cooked separately and served on the side? This recipe might be tailored for my aunt, but you will enjoy it too.”–Nik Sharma
Adapted from Veg-table: Recipes, Techniques, and Plant Science for Big-Flavored, Vegetable-Focused Meals by Nik Sharma
Ingredients
For the Green Curry Spinach:
- •60 ml (2 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil
- •60 ml (2 tablespoons) drained capers
- •1 large red onion, minced
- •60 ml (2 tablespoons) green curry paste
- •4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- •455 grams (1 pound) fresh baby spinach
- •120 grams (1 cup) fresh or frozen peas
- •240 ml (1 cup) unsweetened coconut milk
- •2.5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) ground black pepper
- •15 ml (1 tablespoon) fresh lime or lemon juice
- •5 ml (1 teaspoon) low-sodium soy sauce
- •Fine sea salt
For the Crispy Salmon:
- •Four 170 gram (6 ounce) skin-on salmon fillets
- •Fine sea salt
- •Ground black pepper
- •28.4 grams (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter
- •30 ml (2 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil
- •A few springs of cilantro or microgreens like arugula or kale for garnish
Preparation
- For the Green Curry Spinach: Warm the olive oil in a large cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the capers. Sauté until crispy and lightly golden brown, 1 ½ to 2 minutes.
Add the minced red onion. Sauté until translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the green curry paste and the sliced garlic cloves. Sauté until fragrant, 1 ½ to 2 minutes. Add the spinach a handful at a time. Sauté, tossing, until the leaves are completely wilted and most of the liquid evaporates, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in the peas, coconut milk, 120 ml (1/2 cup) water, and ground black pepper. Bring to a boil and let simmer until the peas turn tender, 1 ½ to 2 minutes. Stir in the lime or lemon juice and soy sauce. Taste and season with the fine sea salt. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm
For the Crispy Salmon: Use clean paper towels to pat dry the fillets. Season each fillet on both sides with salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a large cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet over medium heat. Cook until the butter stops crackling and its water evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the olive oil.
Place the salmon fillets on the hot pan, skin side down. Cook without moving the fillets (if moved before the skin is fully cooked, the flesh can easily tear away from the skin). After the first five minutes of cooking, tilt the skillet towards you and use a large spoon to collect the oil in the pan and pour it over the fish fillets. Cook until the skin starts to turn golden brown and crispy on the sides, another 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the cooked fish from the pan to a plate. Serve with the spinach and garnish with the springs of greens. Flavored or plain rice are excellent options to serve along side.
