From East to West, A Long Culinary Tradition
When many of us think about sauerkraut, eastern Europe immediately comes to mind. My first introduction to sauerkraut was through German food, and we usually had it alongside bratwurst at family gatherings. But the history of sauerkraut actually begins farther east in Mongolia.
While cabbage is native to Europe and to Anatolia, it has been eaten in Asia for thousands of years. The Celts and Romans are credited with introducing cabbages across Europe, and its introduction to the Asia Pacific region was likely a result of trade with the Romans. In the middle of the 13th century, the Mongolian empire expanded into Europe, after the empire’s formation a century before under Genghis Khan. Sauerkraut is an example of culinary exchange that happens through hardship, for example from war or forced relocation. While these culinary exchanges are rooted in loss and challenge, they also shape how we eat and interact with the world, and eventually become an important part of the communities shaped by those interactions.
In the case of sauerkraut, while the Mongolians shaped eastern European diets, it was eastern Europeans who ultimately shaped sauerkraut into what it is. Mongolian soldiers brought culinary traditions with them, and one of those traditions was pickled cabbage. As far as we can tell, it was the Mongolian soldiers who introduced eastern Europeans to this food, though the first versions consisted of cabbage pickled in rice wine vinegar.
Later on, lacking the rice vinegar that the Mongolians used, eastern Europeans worked with what was available, giving us the sauerkraut we know today. Modern sauerkraut gets its tangy flavor not from the addition of acidic vinegar, but through lactofermentation, which creates an acidified brine that preserves our cabbage and adds loads of flavor.
Fall is the time sauerkraut is traditionally made: cabbages thrive in cooler weather, and are often one of the final harvests of the year. Sauerkraut can be fermented for just a short time, or can continue to sour for months, meaning it can be enjoyed throughout the winter. Having food supplies like sauerkraut and other fermented foods, which are often more shelf-stable than their fresh vegetable counterparts, is critical to food security. When our ancestors were preparing for winter, they knew that they had to get everything ready that they would need for the whole season to last them while food was scarce. Sauerkraut became a way not only to preserve food, but to nourish our bodies at a time other vegetables weren’t available.
Sauerkraut came to the United States with European immigrants, and has become a part of life here as well. We often see sauerkraut for sale in delis, and the town of Lisbon, Iowa even has a Sauerkraut Days festival. In the southern Appalachian mountains, there is a tradition of planting by the signs, where sowing, harvesting, and other activities are all guided by astrology. In this system, you never make your sauerkraut under a waning moon or it will be limp and soggy. For the proper texture, you’re supposed to let it ferment under a waxing moon instead.
Sauerkraut can be made with others or by yourself, and making a big batch is a fun group activity. Historically, many people made sauerkraut together during harvest season so everyone could share the work and bring home enough to feed themselves. But, you don’t need to make gallons of sauerkraut to reap the benefits!
This recipe yields just two pints, and can be made in the smallest kitchen with minimal equipment. Here are a few tips for success: when you make your sauerkraut, make sure to use salt without additives (so no iodized salt or anti-caking agents), which can inhibit fermentation. And, make sure to keep your fermenting sauerkraut on a plate or tray to keep stray drips and drops from staining countertops. Finally, make sure to ‘burp’ your sauerkraut each day by loosening and tightening the lid, which will release any built up gas and prevent you from cleaning up a mess!
Homemade Sauerkraut Recipe
This is the way I learned to make sauerkraut over a decade ago. The person who taught me made sauerkraut in jars, rather than a crock, to keep their small apartment from smelling like cabbage, and I find this method to be so easy (and to work so well in small spaces) that it’s become a go-to for me when I teach fermentation classes. You’ll need two pint jars with lids and bands for this method.
Ingredients
- •1 head cabbage
- •Spices (e.g., caraway, fennel, juniper berries; optional)
- •Salt (sea salt, kosher salt, or other salt with no additives or anti-caking agents)
Preparation
Remove the outer two layers of leaves from your cabbage and set them aside. Quarter and core the cabbage, then thinly shred it.
Add the shredded cabbage to a bowl and sprinkle liberally with salt (I use about 5 ml/1 teaspoon). Toss together and allow to sit for 10 minutes.
Massage the salt into the cabbage until the cabbage releases enough liquid to form a brine (you’ll know it’s ready when it releases a thin stream of liquid when squeezed). If it doesn’t seem like the cabbage is releasing liquid, add a bit more salt and keep massaging.
Give the brine a quick taste: You want it to taste salty like the sea. If it seems like the brine needs a bit more salt, you can always add more and massage it in, though I’ve rarely found that the salt needs adjustment at this point.
Pack the cabbage tightly into glass pint jars. Using your hand—either flat or balled into a fist—or the back of a ladle, or a wooden sauerkraut pounder, press your cabbage down firmly to release any air bubbles and ensure that the brine will cover it. If your cabbage is not completely covered, add more brine. If you find there are still air bubbles, gently slide a chopstick or knife down the edge of your jar to release them.
Fold over one of the outer cabbage leaves you set aside earlier, and place it on top of the shredded cabbage in the jar. This top leaf keeps the shredded cabbage in the brine. Make sure the leaf itself is also sub- merged in the brine.
Place the lid on each jar and set the jars on a baking sheet or plate. Allow to ferment out of direct sunlight for 2 to 3 weeks (or longer, if desired, which will soften the cabbage and make it more sour). Loosen each lid and check your ferment at least every couple days, making sure all the cabbage stays submerged in the brine. If you need to add more brine, use a solution of 5 ml (1 teaspoon) salt dissolved in 473 ml (2 cups) water.
Once your kraut is as sour as you’d like, store it in the fridge in an air-tight container (like the jars you fermented it in), where it can keep for several months if it stays submerged in brine. One note: when storing ferments with metal rings in the fridge, it can be helpful to put a piece of parchment or waxed paper between the top of the jar and the lid to prevent corrosion. Just make sure the paper doesn’t come in contact with the ferment itself.
