This no-recipe sweet-tart ham is ideal for family gatherings or a party. Ham is a great holiday dish because it feeds a crowd and is a gorgeous buffet centerpiece. Afterward, it leaves fantastic leftovers for sandwiches, breakfast stratas, and dinner casseroles. The bones and meat are the foundation of heavenly soups – potato, lentil, pea, kale – that freeze beautifully.
And it is easy, SO easy. At the holidays my excuse for a simple recipe is that I am busy with shopping, gifts, decorating, and housecleaning before and after guests. But what I really like is that I can pull from my pantry and freezer to make an outstanding glaze with whatever I happen to have on hand. You can too.
Buy a whole or half presliced spiral ham on the bone. You’ll want the bone for later. You’ll slice around the bone and the fine flavorful slices will tumble enticingly on the platter. For a buffet, just get it started and leave a carving set so guests can slice their own. But that comes later. First you need to cook and glaze the ham.
Let the ham come to room temperature for about an hour before cooking. Preheat the oven to 163°C (325°F). Wrap the ham in foil and place in a roasting pan. You’ll be cooking it for about 12 minutes a pound and will want the interior to reach 60°C (140°F) on an instant-read thermometer. Set a timer for about the halfway point during roasting, and put the ham in the oven. You don’t want to overcook the meat, so test it halfway by inserting the thermometer through the foil; that will help indicate how much longer it needs to cook.
The fun part is the glaze, which you will brush on when you remove the foil from the ham. Forget about the dark gluey glaze that comes in a packet with the ham. Make your own glaze, aiming for a sweet-tart mixture thick enough to cling to the meat, just enough sugar to caramelize to a crunchy edge on the slices, and burnish the ham with a glossy shine.
You can begin with an orange marmalade or natural fruit jam, adding a spoonful of mustard. Pomegranate syrup will make it tart, hot honey adds both sweetness and spice. Add a generous squeeze of fresh orange juice. If you like the flavor of molasses, add a tiny bit, increasing to taste. Season with salt and pepper.
When the ham is fully heated, remove the foil, and brush it well with the glaze, making sure to allow it to drip between slices. Add some orange juice, cider, or water to the bottom of the pan, stirring to scrape up the dripping. Return the uncovered ham to the oven and allow it to brown for about 15 minutes. Transfer the ham to a platter. Season the pan juices and pour into a small pitcher to serve separately. 
